Yeah, I know carbs too, but I gotta tell ya, I sure appreciate fuel injection. Just got finished helping a buddy with his carbed Dodge plow truck. I know you know about ballast resistors, well now he does too lol. He'd was also getting in it and just mashing his foot down, real quick once, and then try to start it (big 4 barrel on it). I've got a new 4 carb syncronizer I've offered to use on it for him, but he's over the carb thing and I believe he's got a victim, I mean a buyer who's interested.
Hey, what about those fan belts on the covairs!? If you have a pic of one, you should post it up so everyone can see what GM engineers were pulling off in the sixty's. You know, just in case you thought those 5/16's bolt heads on the battery terminals was tough to cozy up to. You didn't by any chance have one of those very rare factory turbo editions did you?
To adjust that tps properly, you really need to put a meter on it to tell when it's just starting to react to the throttle plate opening. That will restore the much needed synchronisity between the maf and the tps and eliminate any jerkyness or hesitation on take offs. You know that will net you additional mpg's as well. On the older style tps units (pre 94 style), you could just take the cover off of them and just see when the contacts were moving. As far as adjusting the idle goes, the difference between the older carbed cars and these ecm controlled cars is, you have to "deactivate" the ecm before making idle or timing adjustments. Without doing that, the computer will constantly fight you or keep adjusting to compensate for any adjustments you attempt. You know to place that shorting jumper in the under hood diagnostic access right?


Place the jumper between the two terminals I've use the whiteout on.