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Oct 2 07 8:41 PM

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Hi everyone im thinking that my wheel bearings or hub is bad especially when i read the thread that explain the Whoom whoom sound coming from the wheels is actually the hubs...i never knew this an thought it was my thin tires....how would i go buy replacing them..or changing them....? (cause its very noisy the faster you go and between that an my exhaust)..ive had about enuff..lol..any info would help..

184,960 Miles And Still Going...1994 Ford Aspire SE
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nerd racing

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#4 [url]

Oct 3 07 8:04 PM

its a really good idea to use one, aren't the wheel bearings pressed into the hub in the front??

"In a perfect world all the geeks get the girls"

1995 Ford Aspire 3 Door Black, (B8 F-series)---> RIP
1997 Ford Aspire 3 Door Teal ---> Sold '08
1996 Ford Aspire 5 door Green ---> Parted wouldn't hold her oil
1994 Ford Aspire 3 door Red ---> Former BP, V6 Swapped... Rusted Out...
1995 Ford Aspire 5 Door Blurple --> Sold '11 No Room...

1989 Ford Festiva L 4 Speed Carby Model --> Soon to be an Abomination!
1990 AWD 5 Speed Mazda Protege Black -->(BP GTX Trans) Daily Driver/Donor Waiting to Happen... Soon to be BP+T


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nerd racing

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#6 [url]

Oct 4 07 8:17 AM

Please use a torque wrench when replacing the bearings, radial thrust bearings are designed to have a specific pre load on them. They will fail premature if you do not torque them and grease them correctly. Trust me I have a degree in Mechanical Design Engineering, I took a whole semester course on bearing application and design.

"In a perfect world all the geeks get the girls"

1995 Ford Aspire 3 Door Black, (B8 F-series)---> RIP
1997 Ford Aspire 3 Door Teal ---> Sold '08
1996 Ford Aspire 5 door Green ---> Parted wouldn't hold her oil
1994 Ford Aspire 3 door Red ---> Former BP, V6 Swapped... Rusted Out...
1995 Ford Aspire 5 Door Blurple --> Sold '11 No Room...

1989 Ford Festiva L 4 Speed Carby Model --> Soon to be an Abomination!
1990 AWD 5 Speed Mazda Protege Black -->(BP GTX Trans) Daily Driver/Donor Waiting to Happen... Soon to be BP+T


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#7 [url]

Oct 4 07 11:01 AM

well if it makes u feel any better i DID grease them the right way. i would have used a torque wrench but i dont have one and theyre not very cheap. theyve lasted a good 8 months now and arent making any sounds or anything so maybe i got lucky with the impact driver...

current dd = e30 :)

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iceracerdude

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#10 [url]

Oct 4 07 11:05 PM

There is no "take the nut off and there you are". Those bearings are pressed on and off with a serious press, and if I'm not mistaken, there's a special spacer between them. You'll probably need to take them to a good shop (reads pressed on bearings experienced) or the dealer (for sure experienced)for that. The back hub bearings are more beatable. IMO

The precision is the religion for me!

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8143928

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#11 [url]

Oct 5 07 5:39 PM

that hapened to me, i did put too much pressure and they broke down and now i go to the garage to torque them fordaspire/icon_horns2.gif fordaspire/WOOT.gif there we go with the smileys heheheheh

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nerd racing

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#14 [url]

Nov 13 07 12:57 AM

Block the rear opposite tire. Break Free the lug studs on the wheel you are going to be working on. I would also loosen the CV shaft nut while it is on the ground as well. Jack up the car by the proper jacking point. Place a jack stand under the car for added safety. Then remove the tire. Carefully tap the end of the CV shaft with a soft hammer or a piece of wood to free up the shaft from the knuckle. I would suggest removing the caliper now, Zip tie it to the spring to keep it out of the way and to keep tension off of the rubber line. Unbolt the tie rod end, and the ball joint. Remove them carefully as to not rip the boots if they are intact still. Make a note of where the bolt positions are on the knuckle and make sure you return them in the same way so that your alignment won't be off. Then Unbolt the two bolts for the strut to spindle assembly. You should have your knuckle out of the car. I highly suggest at this point that you take the knuckle and bearing to a shop, dealership, or buddy that has a press. Have them press out the hub and bearings and then have them press in the new bearings and the hub into the bearing. Make sure everything is greased well and there are no ripped boots before you put everything back in. At this point you should know how to put it all back together. I would suggest torquing everything to the specs in the haynes manual. I would also recomend having an alignment done at a shop. Enjoy having a bearing noise free front end!

"In a perfect world all the geeks get the girls"

1995 Ford Aspire 3 Door Black, (B8 F-series)---> RIP
1997 Ford Aspire 3 Door Teal ---> Sold '08
1996 Ford Aspire 5 door Green ---> Parted wouldn't hold her oil
1994 Ford Aspire 3 door Red ---> Former BP, V6 Swapped... Rusted Out...
1995 Ford Aspire 5 Door Blurple --> Sold '11 No Room...

1989 Ford Festiva L 4 Speed Carby Model --> Soon to be an Abomination!
1990 AWD 5 Speed Mazda Protege Black -->(BP GTX Trans) Daily Driver/Donor Waiting to Happen... Soon to be BP+T


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iceracerdude

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#15 [url]

Nov 13 07 2:07 AM

QUOTE (jesseealexander @ October 02, 2007 10:31 pm)
take off the axle nut and the wheel and the rotor. theres the bearings.

theyre really pretty easy to replace just make sure you grease them well

QUOTE
fordaspire/Picard2.gif ......J.A....J.A.....J.A.

The precision is the religion for me!

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nerd racing

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#17 [url]

Nov 13 07 9:22 AM

Yup no problem, anything to keep an aspire out of a junk yard, or to keep someone from getting charged uber amounts of money at the garage.

Jesse's description sounds like the rear wheel bearings, they come out pretty much like that.

"In a perfect world all the geeks get the girls"

1995 Ford Aspire 3 Door Black, (B8 F-series)---> RIP
1997 Ford Aspire 3 Door Teal ---> Sold '08
1996 Ford Aspire 5 door Green ---> Parted wouldn't hold her oil
1994 Ford Aspire 3 door Red ---> Former BP, V6 Swapped... Rusted Out...
1995 Ford Aspire 5 Door Blurple --> Sold '11 No Room...

1989 Ford Festiva L 4 Speed Carby Model --> Soon to be an Abomination!
1990 AWD 5 Speed Mazda Protege Black -->(BP GTX Trans) Daily Driver/Donor Waiting to Happen... Soon to be BP+T


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RideoutKSC

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Posts: 708

#18 [url]

Nov 14 07 12:14 PM

I now have the hub assembly off the car. Here are the steps I went through.

1) Loosen lug nuts.
2) Jack up car.
3) Remove lug nuts and wheel.
4) Using an impact gun, remove the 29mm axle nut.
5) Remove caliper and hang on strut spring using a wire. (15mm bolts)
6) Using 17mm socket, loosen strut bolts.
7) Using what I believe was a 13mm socket, loosen lower ball joint.
8) Using a 17mm socket, loosen tie-rod end and tap out tie rod from hub assembly.
9) Pull axle out of hub by turning the hub all the way forward.
10) Using socket wrench handle and a hammer, lightly bang lower ball joint out of hub assembly.
11) Remove strut bolts.

It took some work getting the hub off of the lower ball joint. The impact gun really helps, too bad I rented it for $16.50 and I have to return it now. I sure could use it for the install.

I took the hub to Sullivan Tire and they are going to remove the old bearings and press in the new bearings. They were not very positive about doing this job.

Every mechanic I have spoken to about this car has said it was a crap box so I am little concerned about this car. I work at a dealership and the press there was broken so I had to go elsewhere.

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cyrus

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Posts: 750

#19 [url]

Nov 14 07 3:54 PM

this car isn't a crap box.. its just "not worth a lot" in terms of turning it in at a dealership.. this car is actually very good and dependable if you take care of it right

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RideoutKSC

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Posts: 708

#20 [url]

Nov 14 07 11:24 PM

We gave someone $50 for the car on their trade. I had to beat the junkyard's price, so $101 was the final price of the Aspire.

Now I'm an additional $100 into the car in parts/ tools.

Good news though, the front bearing job is now complete! It's nice and quiet!

Bad news...I need to do both rear bearings (half way done just need parts).

Also, I jacked up the driver's side and I discovered that the gas tank has a slight leak and so does the oil pan near the crank...the car being jacked up moved the fluids and this lead me to my discovery.

The wheel bearings are an easy fix if you have someone press them out and in.

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