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Jun 16 08 8:47 PM

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Sorry if this has been discussed else were. I want to know if i can do the front drivers side wheel bearings replacement myslef.

Garages tell me I need a special 800 dollar machine to get the bearings out.

My Haynes repair manual does not show any repair methods. Instructs me to go to garage.

Does anyone know how to do this repair at home. And what parts are needed?

Thank you for your time in advance.
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Awesome Member

Posts: 750

#1 [url]

Jun 16 08 11:23 PM

i believe take off the part and get a shop to press the old bearings out and new ones in then put it all back together. don't think you can do EVERYTHING on it yourself. you need a press.

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#2 [url]

Jun 17 08 1:58 AM

Ditto on what Cyrus said.

Remove the hub, buy the bearings/races and have a local machine shop or dealership press them off and in. Cost me $30 or $35 per side in labor. Make sure they remember to put the spacer back between the bearings or you will be doing it again very shortly!

Good Luck!


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Awesome Member

Posts: 708

#3 [url]

Jun 17 08 10:53 PM

Step 1) Go to junk yard and remove entire steering knuckle from a junked Aspire in good condition.
Step 2) Put junked Aspire knuckle on your Aspire.

Obviously check the knuckle on the junked Aspire to make sure it isn't junk.

This is the easiest/ cheapest way.

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Ultimate Member

Posts: 2,121

#4 [url]

Jun 19 08 9:03 AM

the spacers, the spacers, the spacers...

The precision is the religion for me!

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#5 [url]

Dec 12 08 3:27 AM

sorry to bump, but i feel i should share some easy home repair information
i replaced ALOT front wheel bearings that 'needed a press'
used a hammer to drive the races in/out. I set some heavy 12" cubes of iron to support 3 sides of the hub (iron because it's heavy, and sturdy and wont wiggle/bounce when pounding) on the floor, then got a heavy short handled sledge and pounded them out... that's my $800 machine.
i think i used a huge 1" drive socket to drive them into the hub nice and square. At that i've done it without a socket, use a round flat punch, go around the race bit by bit going in a circle. they're hardened steel so, don't worry about pits or dings, just hit it on the edge, not the inner face...
nothing special. differnt hubs will need a different setup, but for the most part, it's all the same. the only time i needed a press was for some heavy stuff; like races 10" diameter and wider...

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nerd racing

Grand Master Member

Posts: 4,219

#6 [url]

Dec 12 08 8:51 AM

the best way to do that is to drive the bearings by the inner races so as to not put excess pressure on the bearing cages and cause premature wear and possibly failure. you can get a soft punch that is known as a bearing punch that will work superbly.

"In a perfect world all the geeks get the girls"

1995 Ford Aspire 3 Door Black, (B8 F-series)---> RIP
1997 Ford Aspire 3 Door Teal ---> Sold '08
1996 Ford Aspire 5 door Green ---> Parted wouldn't hold her oil
1994 Ford Aspire 3 door Red ---> Former BP, V6 Swapped... Rusted Out...
1995 Ford Aspire 5 Door Blurple --> Sold '11 No Room...

1989 Ford Festiva L 4 Speed Carby Model --> Soon to be an Abomination!
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Executive Member

Posts: 490

#7 [url]

Dec 17 08 9:28 PM

QUOTE (iceracerdude @ June 19, 2008 09:03 am)
the spacers, the spacers, the spacers...

I second that!

the $800 tool aint the press its the tool to determine the proper spacers. The ford service manual goes into it in great detail. Thats why its not mentioned in the haynes manual. Sure you can press in a new set by yourself with the sledgeomatic way or have a shop do it but both leave out the spacer issue. There are a full set of diffrent spacers sold by ford to be used in reassembly depending the runout of the new bearing set.

If you do look up old posts on this issue you will find many bearing failures not long after the bearings are replaced, the spacers are the reason.

I agree that the easiest way to deal with the issue is just swap out a full knuckle from a junk yard. pick a low milage hull and you should be fine. not all bearings die young either. My original egg has 250,000 miles and the bearings are still fine. the CV's are liekly near the end but even they are hanging in there, its a good old egg!

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#8 [url]

May 26 16 10:13 PM

Had The Mechanic Do Mine

On my 1995 Aspire, I just bought new bearings and wheel nuts, drove the car down to my mechanic and they only charged me for labor, and the seals I forgot to buy also. Cost $116 for the labor for both front wheels, which wasn't too bad. 

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