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Feb 15 09 10:16 PM

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Ok...I have read a lot of information about rebuilding wheel hub assemblies. There are those that have and have not had success. There is also those in need of repairing their hub assemblies.
I have replaced both inner and outer bearings and races on the passenger side with success over a thousand miles ago. I decided to pull apart the driver side, inspect and repack the assembly if I found no problems.
What I found just affirms my belief about not trusting other peoples work...missing part!
So here is a step by step process for tearing down your hub assembly. I will add steps for reassembly tomorrow, after I go to the parts store...stay tuned.

http://s701.photobucket.com/albums/ww13/Sh...heel%20bearing/
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nerd racing

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#1 [url]

Feb 15 09 10:19 PM

awesome can't wait!

"In a perfect world all the geeks get the girls"

1995 Ford Aspire 3 Door Black, (B8 F-series)---> RIP
1997 Ford Aspire 3 Door Teal ---> Sold '08
1996 Ford Aspire 5 door Green ---> Parted wouldn't hold her oil
1994 Ford Aspire 3 door Red ---> Former BP, V6 Swapped... Rusted Out...
1995 Ford Aspire 5 Door Blurple --> Sold '11 No Room...

1989 Ford Festiva L 4 Speed Carby Model --> Soon to be an Abomination!
1990 AWD 5 Speed Mazda Protege Black -->(BP GTX Trans) Daily Driver/Donor Waiting to Happen... Soon to be BP+T


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#2 [url]

Feb 15 09 10:37 PM

i don't get it? what's so complicated? punch out races and punch in new races? maybe a seal? Axle nut pulls it all together? i used a hammer and a punch to remove the old, and a big 1" socket about the size of the race to drive in the new ones just keep tapping it, it'll make a different ring when it's fully seated.....same method with the seal. 40,000 miles and still rolling....well, transmission failure, but, that's not wheel bearing related.

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bluesneaky

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Posts: 490

#3 [url]

Feb 15 09 11:57 PM

QUOTE (jason_ @ February 15, 2009 10:37 pm)
i don't get it? what's so complicated? punch out races and punch in new races? maybe a seal? Axle nut pulls it all together? i used a hammer and a punch to remove the old, and a big 1" socket about the size of the race to drive in the new ones just keep tapping it, it'll make a different ring when it's fully seated.....same method with the seal. 40,000 miles and still rolling....well, transmission failure, but, that's not wheel bearing related.

Take a look at his pictures. In the parts breakout notice part number 1195 is "selctive". That is the part that selects the preload on the bearing. There are several spacer sizes avalable. The proper spacer is selected by testing the load on the new bearing set before reassemebly. Dumb luck can work for you if the new set of bearings are exactly the same as the old set and last like they are suposed to. Without dumb luck the bearing preload is improper and its like cranking down too tight on the old fashioned nut type loaded bearings. If those were left too loose or too tight the bearing failed in short order, same goes here on the aspire only this spacer sets that tightness and you cant tell if its too loose or tight till you have reassembeled. But if the spacer used made it too tight the new bearing set has already been damaged by getting squeezed too tight in the assembly.

This is what makes it complicated to do corectly. Doing it the dumb luck way is easy but the results of the bearing change are unpredictable.

The way to select the right spacer is outlined in the ford service manual, its a bear of a procedure.

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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bluesneaky

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Posts: 490

#4 [url]

Feb 16 09 12:03 AM

QUOTE (MJG @ February 15, 2009 10:16 pm)
Ok...I have read a lot of information about rebuilding wheel hub assemblies.

Nice set of pics showing your process. They are great! fordaspire/notworthy.gif As for the reading, have you read the service manual on the process? It has a few more steps that you might to consider...

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#6 [url]

Feb 16 09 8:31 AM

I too have done many wheel bearings on different vehicles...however, the front bearings on an Aspire basically create a sealed unit, not like most front wheel bearings that are not pressed into the hubs (like the rear bearings on the Aspire). I have a friend who is a Ford mechanic...he was not familiar with the Aspire assembly; this is why I decided to read up on it before I tore into my first hub.

Yes, I have read the full procedures (hence where the drawings came from), I used my words to simplify the process. I don't see that I have left any key point out.

As part of the assembly procedures I will be performing a torque test to check for the correct preload before I assemble the hub. At this time I will discuss the spacer and preload.

Thanks

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#9 [url]

Feb 18 09 7:25 AM

QUOTE (MJG @ February 16, 2009 08:31 am)
I too have done many wheel bearings on different vehicles...however, the front bearings on an Aspire basically create a sealed unit, not like most front wheel bearings that are not pressed into the hubs (like the rear bearings on the Aspire). I have a friend who is a Ford mechanic...he was not familiar with the Aspire assembly; this is why I decided to read up on it before I tore into my first hub.

Yes, I have read the full procedures (hence where the drawings came from), I used my words to simplify the process. I don't see that I have left any key point out.

As part of the assembly procedures I will be performing a torque test to check for the correct preload before I assemble the hub. At this time I will discuss the spacer and preload.

Thanks

between the 4 knuckles/hubs, i used the shims and got what i needed. I do remember having to add one shim to one of the sides.....

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bluesneaky

Executive Member

Posts: 490

#10 [url]

Feb 18 09 4:23 PM

QUOTE (MJG @ February 17, 2009 10:55 pm)
Ops link was broken:

http://s701.photobucket.com/albums/ww13/Sh...heel%20bearing/

Lets try this again...hope it proves helpfull to someone.


fordaspire/WOOT.gif Fantastic Pics and write up in the notes!!! Major Kudos!!!! fordaspire/notworthy.gif fordaspire/liebe011.gif

I really think forgeting to test the preload is what kills so many bearing changes in the eggs. We have all changed wheel bearings time and time again but the old aspire's front end wants us to take it a bit more carefully. Where did you find the rotaion ft lbs spec? Was it in the ford manual? I dont have it with me to check but I do remember reading it and how it discribed the "Rotunda" tool from hell to test it. I didnt look at the situation long enough to figure out a way to bypass the ford tool needed. Your idea is GREAT (if thats where you go the roataion spec)

Again a verry nice set of pics and instructions! I am totaly impressed! Dont take the pics off photobucket, we will all need them sooner or later if we keep our eggs.

BTW......This needs to be pinned!
Too many bearing jobs have failed in posts just since I have been on here. To my knowlage this is the first time the prelaod has been really addressed much less a solution to the ford tool has been discribed and pictutred.

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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bluesneaky

Executive Member

Posts: 490

#11 [url]

Feb 18 09 4:29 PM

.....And nobody mentioned how darn quiet the eggs get with new wheel bearings, its like I can hear again!!! Its sooooo cool!

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#12 [url]

Feb 18 09 6:50 PM

I followed the information in Alldatadiy.com

All but the 145 ft lbs can be approx...it is just so you rotate the bearings and prevent bearing damage.

The only other thing I could have added was to use extreme pressure wheel bearing grease. This will also prolong bearing life.

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