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bluesneaky

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Posts: 490

#21 [url]

Apr 30 09 2:59 AM

Center to outside. Outside to outside is reading across the whole pot and will give you 5k. Center is the wiper arm of the TPS

If you get it adjusted right it should read near 5k when the throttle is wide open. and 1k or under when at idle. Personaly I like to set mine to 1.4k at idle with a light touch advance on the distributor.

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#22 [url]

May 13 09 7:21 PM

i think i found the problem the tps started out that 1.18 to about 1.5 went to 0 when to 2K then rolled to 4.48 K

I have been idling the about twice a week and moving it a little distance the problem got worse and this is what it tested

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bluesneaky

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Posts: 490

#23 [url]

May 18 09 2:22 AM

QUOTE (AtomicAlero @ May 13, 2009 07:21 pm)
i think i found the problem the tps started out that 1.18 to about 1.5 went to 0 when to 2K then rolled to 4.48 K

I have been idling the about twice a week and moving it a little distance the problem got worse and this is what it tested

Im not quite followingt what you are saying.

It should easily got to near or beyond 5k if set to 1 k on the low side. It should be a smooth transition as you begin to open the throttle from 1k to 5k. no bumps or lumps or bouncing to a lower resitance on the way. If it doesnt go smoothly you need a new tps right away. It has the potential to run your cart too lean and burn a valve if it is jumping around

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#24 [url]

Jun 5 09 8:56 AM

hello there. noob here. i've been following this thread and i checked my '94 kia avella tps as i have been having fluctuating and high idle after cleaning the TB and here is what i found. (terminal 1 is bottom, 2 center and 3 at top position)

at idle:
1 & 2 1.851 k
2 & 3 2.399 k
1 & 3 1.056 k

at wot:
1 & 2 1.851 k
2 & 3 1.125 k
1 & 3 2.287 k

is the tps busted? i have not tried adjusting it yet. i was just wondering how come the values at terminal 2 & 3 at idle is higher than at wot when it should been the other way around? was my assumption correct?

the car's been idling fine before i cleaned the TB except for some bucking when shifting to second gear.

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bill190

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Posts: 247

#25 [url]

Jun 5 09 9:45 AM

If you got any cleaning fluid on the TPS, I would replace it.

Also these should be tested with the electrical cable disconnected and engine off (when measuring the sensor for ohms or resistance).

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#26 [url]

Jun 6 09 2:25 AM

i tested with the cable and engine off. however due to curiosity i turned the key to on but did not start the engine. i measured the voltage at pins 2 & 3.

at idle 4.5 V
at wot 0.8 V

i think this just confirms the ohmic resistance at idle and wot. the values are interchanged and this probably messes up the pcm computations.

now, should i start adjusting the tps? when i cleaned the TB i only used very little kerosene mixed with injector cleaner and the good ol' toothbrush. and i cleaned as i go so i'm pretty certain nothing got to the tps. i also cleaned the IAC and the EGR valves as these were pretty clogged up. the one thing i haven't touched yet is the tps.

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bill190

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Posts: 247

#27 [url]

Jun 6 09 9:21 AM

So far as I know, you should not clean the electrical portion of any sensors.

On the following link about 3/4 the way down is a picture of the inside of a "variable resistor". I would suggest going to a second hand store and buying an old radio or something with a volume control like this, then measure the resistance (ohms) as you turn it back and forth using the middle contact and one outside contact.

Then take it apart and clean it with your cleaning solution, let it dry, then put it back together and measure the resistance again. See if the cleaning fluid damaged it.

http://home.howstuffworks.com/dimmer-switch.htm/printable

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#28 [url]

Jun 6 09 11:54 PM

my tps is bosch part #0280 122 001. i don't know if it is the same as the one installed in the aspire/festiva. the bosch specs says the total resistance is between terminals 1 & 2 (2 kohms +/- 20%) and it will seem is not from outside to outside pin. also, i think it's not adjustable as the holes are not oval.


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#29 [url]

Jun 8 09 3:56 AM

I finally fixed the problem today fordaspire/WOOT.gif

When i finally figured out that the tps wasn't faulty by voltage checking, I reckoned the throttle stop probably wasn't adjusted right. Before i got this car somebody else might have tinkered with the idle setting to compensate for the low idle due to all the accumulated gunk in the throttle body especially on the throttle plate.

Since the tps is of the non-adjustable type I adjusted the throttle stop and set it just at about 0.58 V at idle and 4.3 V at wot. The resistance of the tps at idle is 1.03 k-ohm and 2.337 k at wot. I got the idle at less than 1k but decided to set it just a wee bit higher.

Keeping my fingers crossed I started the car and voila! No more rough idle! fordaspire/chili.gif

The idle was a little bit high at 1100 rpm so after reaching operating temp I turned off the car. I turned it on again and removed the IACV connector. The idle dropped and I adjusted the idle screw little by little to about 800 rpm then I reconnected the IACV. The IACV readjusted after a few moments and idled to about 1000 rpm. I wanted it to idle at around 800-900 but the idle screw was almost maxed so I left it at that.

I travelled short distances to test it and so far so good although the bucking when shifting to 2nd gear is still there.

Thanks to everybody who helped! fordaspire/icon_horns2.gif

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bluesneaky

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Posts: 490

#30 [url]

Jun 22 09 4:03 PM

Sounds great! the WOT realy should have been much closer to 5 k though. I have one (on the shelf) that does what yours does and a few others that go to 5k as the ford manual said it would. I dont rememebr the reason for haing a TPS that doesnt seem to be right, maybe I took it out of one of the eggs and never threw it away. any how, all three 95's went to about 5k WOT. maybe the ECU is trying to use the range of 1 thru 2 k as the full throw of the throttle and run the mixture accordingly??? it might account for the goofy preformance shifitn to 2nd??

btw I never tried just removing the IAVC to set idle. does it work the same as the jumper method for the diagnosis port they show in the books?

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#31 [url]

Jun 25 09 8:07 AM

Probably the total resistance depends on the tps model. The bosch model that was in mine was rated at 2K (+/- 20%). It also non-adjustable.

I've used as a reference a thread somewhere in this forum on how to adjust the idle speed wherein the IACV was disconnected first.

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bluesneaky

Executive Member

Posts: 490

#32 [url]

Jun 29 09 1:02 AM

you know its still kinda wierd, Kermit idles at about 300-400 nothing near 1000 and as I remember when the tach was in Ziggy #2 it was about the same, not anywhere near 1000.

Was the bosh TPS a replacement for the ford part? If you want or are intrested I might be able to snag a 5k TPS from the local JY. Maybe that would get the ECU back to understanding the full range from idle to WOT and let it slow down. Just a thought.

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#33 [url]

Jul 8 09 11:12 PM

Hi I have been puzzled by the inconsistency of my 96 TPS readings and the manuals. In the FSM book and cd, ARRC, Autozone, and Mitchell all say it's 5k at WOT and less than 1 ohm fully closed. My initial read was closed 4.15k and WOT 861 ohms. The "book" has two errors, the values are reversed and they don't use kohm for the less than 1 kohm.

Or is my TPS messed up? I will take my meter to the junkyard they have 3 cars there to test.

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bluesneaky

Executive Member

Posts: 490

#34 [url]

Jul 14 09 11:07 AM

QUOTE (pcmentor29 @ July 08, 2009 11:12 pm)
Hi I have been puzzled by the inconsistency of my 96 TPS readings and the manuals. In the FSM book and cd, ARRC, Autozone, and Mitchell all say it's 5k at WOT and less than 1 ohm fully closed. My initial read was closed 4.15k and WOT 861 ohms. The "book" has two errors, the values are reversed and they don't use kohm for the less than 1 kohm.

Or is my TPS messed up? I will take my meter to the junkyard they have 3 cars there to test.

Try to read a few more of the posts, 5K at WOT is right (no mistake) but you need to be sure you are reading the right end of the potentiometer. It will apear as if its backwards if you read on the wrong end of the pot.

You are right about the FSM having an error about the "1 ohm" It should say 1K ohms. 5k at WOT, and by the manual (if corrected) 1k or under at idle. I have found a little higher (about 1.4k) to get better MPG. I have found no problems with this setting after driving over 100k miles with it.

It seems as if the other sources you quoted take thier info from the FSM and just repeat the error of setting it "under 1 ohm".

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#35 [url]

Jul 14 09 12:34 PM

Thanks bluesneaky, I have been feeling very lonely in troubleshooting this issue. I will adjust it to 1.4kohms.

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