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Mar 9 09 7:12 AM

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Hi, Just found this site and had no idea one existed! My wife and I are replacing the clutch plate kit in our 97 Aspire. We need to remove the transaxle and are wondering if we need to remove the wheel too. I was hoping there was a pin or bolts (like a universal joint) that can be disconnected without removing the wheel brake unit but I don't see one. Do both sides have to be removed or just the driver side where I am pulling the transmission from? I figured if I pulled the trans towards that side, the axle from the other side will automatically pull out??? We cannot find any real details that can help. If there is an online blowup schematic of that, it sure would help! Thanks
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iceracerdude

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#1 [url]

Mar 9 09 5:01 PM

You really should get a book for this type of job, consider it a tool. Yes you're right about leaving the one axle in the trans. No, you don't have to take the brake off the driver's hub. You will of course have to remove the axles nuts, and I would just release the strut from the steering knuckle, so you can just swing it out of your way. I've actually done this clutch job by flexing the trans away from the engine, not dropping it completely down!

The precision is the religion for me!

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#2 [url]

Mar 9 09 7:57 PM

...I've actually done this clutch job by flexing the trans away from the engine, not dropping it completely down! ....

Thanks! I did get the drive shafts out of the way, and got the transmission unbolted. Had a time getting one of the brace bolts loose in the front. Had to cut into the metal frame where the nut was supposed to be welded in the frame and ended up breaking that bolt in two trying to get it out.

But that idea, swinging the trans away without dropping it sound interesting. I'll be continuing the work tomorrow (Tuesday) so I'll see what can be done.

Thanks

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iceracerdude

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#3 [url]

Mar 9 09 10:10 PM

One of the advantages of the flex thing is, that single remaining motor mount over by the passenger wheel well. Presuming you've got the car up on stands, and if the motor gets supported by a jack, you can raise or lower the motor to accomodate this technique. The trans is pretty easy to handle, using that hole the starter was in.

The precision is the religion for me!

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#5 [url]

Mar 10 09 7:43 AM

The engine is still mounted over by the passenger side. I got a 4x4 post three feet long, sitting across over the engine (from front to windshield) with some seatbelt strap wrapped around the engine and up over the 4x4.

The mounting bar under the trans is out. I got a roller jack under the transmission, but not sure of pulling it. It's outside over grass and my jack is not really tall enough. So I put a series of bricks down, making a "floor" and putting some solid wood over that for the jack to sit on. I can maneuver it some but will be limited.

I'll let you know how that goes unless someone rescues me from my stupidity before then!!

Boyd

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#6 [url]

Mar 10 09 10:04 AM

OK, finally got the transmission out. Boy is it greasy in the bell housing.

One thing I found out. The term "simply" in a Hanes manual in a 12 year old car does not apply. They demonstrate on newer, less greasy cars.

"To remove the rear seal, simply pry it out".

Right.

Still digging,

Boyd

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#7 [url]

Mar 10 09 12:05 PM

Which seal are you talking about? Is it the rear mainseal of the engine or the input shaft seal of the transmission?

The rear mainseal of the engine is what I think that you mean. The rear mainseal will not come out easily unless you ventilate the engine first. The drain plug and oil filler cap should be left off and the oil drained to release the backpressure inside the crankcase.

The same is true of the transmission. However the ford service manual gives the impression that the input shaft seal is actually pushed in from inside the transmission. I don't know if that is true or not, but if it is you will probably want a transmission shop to do it for you.

I usually use a 90° inspection pick as a seal puller. I stick it into a soft part of the seal and then tug gently. If the seal is a real monster I sometimes use a cotter key puller.

WHATEVER YOU DO DON'T SCRATCH THE SEAL BORE YOU'LL F IT UP! fordaspire/Picard2.gif

After you get the seal out clean the area throughly with a spray electrical contact cleaner and then swab it out with shop rags, that will keep you out of trouble with the new seal.

It looks like the cause of the clutch failure in this case was a failed seal. The clutch is still probably ruined and should be replaced at any rate. You may also want to check the endplay of the transmission input shaft to get an idea of where the trans is at wearwise.

New clutch = new cable is also a good plan

I hope all this was helpful

…..All men drive to the ratio of a different differential.

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#8 [url]

Mar 13 09 11:46 AM

Thanks about the rear seal. It was the rear seal, and it was not easy to get off, but I did get it off.

I had already drained the oil and removed the oil pan (I wanted to clean it out of loose junk) and it is all back in now.

I got the clutch plate and transmission back on too.

I am having some trouble getting the mounting bolts to line back up from my trans to the mount bar, but I guess by the time I was ready to do that, I was just plain too tired to push. I had a time getting that transmission back in!

Now I am needing some new boots for the tie rods. I had to remove it and nearly tore up my new tie rod remover! Beat all to heck!

The drive shafts are new, just a few months back, so they are in good shape.

I just need to put the gear oil back in the transmission. Which BTW, I"m not sure of the weight. I got 75, but there are heavier oils too. But at this point, I'm just ready to get this thing back on the road.

It got very cold and will be raining the next several day, under a tent cover, but still not fun to do in this weather.

Thanks all for your help!

Boyd

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bluesneaky

Executive Member

Posts: 490

#9 [url]

Mar 13 09 11:53 AM

ATF Dextron in the gear case I believe, yea even for maunals per the Ford SM. Just FYI...

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#10 [url]

Mar 13 09 4:49 PM

I put a new set of boots from beck & arnley on my car last year and they are holding up great. do you have a power or manual rack & pinion? The boots do need to be changed pronto though. Spring is coming fast.

But please, UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE GEAR OIL IN THAT TRANS YOU WILL @#$% IT UP! fordaspire/Picard2.gif

You are supposed to use dextron with mercon atf like in an automatic. I believe that dextron III is ok but I read somewhere that dextron V is not. You may want to ask Ford to be for sure or pm Iceracerdude, he probably knows for sure.



…..All men drive to the ratio of a different differential.

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#11 [url]

Apr 30 09 10:07 AM

Thanks for everyone's help, I did get it back together and it is running great! BTW, it is a manual transmission, not an automatic. I know not to put transmission gear oil in an automatic! You are right, Dextron III for Fords is what is needed for automatics.

Now I got this strange grinding noise coming from my transaxle, but I think its those teeth that are placed near the wheel. The teeth, from my understanding, may have something to do with the anti lock system which is not available in my car. It is rubbing against the ball joint that is pushed up. I lowered it some, that helped, but I may have to grind or cut those teeth off. It is noisy and I'm sure a gas killer. It grinds louder as I turn the wheel.

Otherwise, glad to have my old car back on the road after four months and it's running great!

Boyd

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#12 [url]

Apr 30 09 4:03 PM

QUOTE (boydmerriman @ April 30, 2009 10:07 am)
Thanks for everyone's help, I did get it back together and it is running great! BTW, it is a manual transmission, not an automatic. I know not to put transmission gear oil in an automatic! You are right, Dextron III for Fords is what is needed for automatics.

Now I got this strange grinding noise coming from my transaxle, but I think its those teeth that are placed near the wheel. The teeth, from my understanding, may have something to do with the anti lock system which is not available in my car. It is rubbing against the ball joint that is pushed up. I lowered it some, that helped, but I may have to grind or cut those teeth off. It is noisy and I'm sure a gas killer. It grinds louder as I turn the wheel.

Otherwise, glad to have my old car back on the road after four months and it's running great!

Boyd

Yes a manual. YES you need to put ATFIII not the 70weight! these are light weight mazda designed gearboxes that need the lightweight AFT fluid in them, dijacobi is right but may not have been clear enough, cos we all know you are talking about a manual (as you've just done the clutch)

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iceracerdude

Ultimate Member

Posts: 2,121

#13 [url]

Apr 30 09 6:39 PM

QUOTE (Jester @ April 30, 2009 05:03 pm)
QUOTE (boydmerriman @ April 30, 2009 10:07 am)
Thanks for everyone's help, I did get it back together and it is running great!  BTW, it is a manual transmission, not an automatic. I know not to put transmission gear oil in an automatic!  You are right, Dextron III for Fords is what is needed for automatics.
Boyd

Yes a manual. YES you need to put ATFIII not the 70weight! these are light weight mazda designed gearboxes that need the lightweight AFT fluid in them, dijacobi is right but may not have been clear enough, cos we all know you are talking about a manual (as you've just done the clutch)


You guys fordaspire/clap.gif Tell it

The precision is the religion for me!

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