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Jun 30 09 5:04 PM

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My 97 Ford Aspire gives this code PO470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor. I looked in my Haynes Repair Manual, it does not list this code or a location for this sensor. I'm hoping someone can help.

Thanks,

Mike
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8144442

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#1 [url]

Jun 30 09 5:59 PM

When i went to install my extractors (tube headers) There's a little sensor that screws into the exhaust just below the oil sump and about a little way up from the resonator. You see a plug with a wire comin out of it.

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iceracerdude

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#2 [url]

Jun 30 09 6:52 PM

QUOTE
There's a little sensor that screws into the exhaust just below the oil sump and about a little way up from the resonator. You see a plug with a wire comin out of it.

I think what this refers to is simply a oxy sensor, imo

This P0470 code relates to an "egr boost sensor failure"
This is what the disk/manual I have, says to check for it:
Damaged sensor
Damaged solenoid
improper harness connection
improper or damaged hoses
open/short in harness (EGRB, EGR CHK, SIG RTN, VREF, VPWR)
Damaged pcm
* examine EGR boost sensor and EGR boost check solenoid vehicle harness
* examine EGR boost sensor and EGR boost check solenoid hoses and hose
connections.

As I recall, screwed right on top of the egr valve, is a sensor with a 3 wire plug going into it.
When the egr valve operates (not unlike a radio speaker, but operating from a vacuum signal), the pin protruding from the bottom of this sensor picks up that valve movement, and sends info back to the ecm, imo.
I don't have a picture I can send you right now cause my car is stored off site...anybody?

The precision is the religion for me!

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#3 [url]

Jun 30 09 9:15 PM

I've been working on this one today too. what other codes did you have?

the sensor on the egr is working for me, but i also had p0400.

I tested the egr pressure sensor fairly easy, remove 3 screws, turn key to on, put voltmeter on right side wire and push the pin up and you can see the voltage change as it moves.

also tested both selnoids on the firewall, used a vacuum pump. both seemed to work as stated in ford service manual.

let me know if you find anything.

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iceracerdude

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#4 [url]

Jun 30 09 9:25 PM

I'm wondering if the egr is pushing the pin up? I'm wondering if it could just be the old garden variety dirty egr situation?

The precision is the religion for me!

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#5 [url]

Jun 30 09 9:41 PM

Did some searching and i think your right. when the car is idling the egr is not moving at all. i can move it with my fingers but..... maybe i will just pop it off and clean it.

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#6 [url]

Jul 3 09 7:31 AM

Hey guys,

I need to get my car's emissions tested. I failed with the same error code PO470.

Is this the sensor that goes into the exhaust pipe kind of under the middle of the car? I took a pic of it, what is this called (just exhaust pressure sensor)? What do you think something like this costs to replace new?

Is this the culprit? PO470 is the only code I'm throwing:

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iceracerdude

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#7 [url]

Jul 3 09 2:13 PM

That thing in the picture is what I said it was in the previous post, an oxygen sensor.
The problem is one of the 4 things the manual shows, I showed that in the post above.
The egr valve (dirty or broken), the sensor on top of of it, or the solenoid valve, or the ecm. And of course, any or all of the hoses that interconnect these items.
I'd actually like to figure out a (physical) hack to eliminate the cause of the code altogether. Some of the guys who "rechip" their ecms, simply change the temp value for that egr circuit, so it never wants/needs to operate, thus no failure thus no code.

The precision is the religion for me!

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#8 [url]

Jul 4 09 10:47 AM

I was actually wondering that about the Aspire. Is there anyone that makes a rechip option for the Aspire to eliminate this problem? I've always had my check engine light on since I bought the car due to this code/error.

Can you change the programming on the fly, or do you actually have to pull a chip out, reburn a new program, and reinsert the chip? I wonder what something like that would cost, might be cheaper just to fix the problem

I usually can reset the computer, go get it tested, it passes.....and then on the ride home it turns back on. So I don't consider it a big deal, but this time it didn't pass. I've done this at least 4 times or so.

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#9 [url]

Jul 9 09 6:15 AM

Hi Ice Racer, I was checking on the location diagrams on the ford cd and the boost sensor is on the firewall next to the egr control and egr vent solenoids. The egr valve position sensor shows on top of the egr itself. Cell 152: Location Index, click in E

I was wondering where you got the list of things to try. Under the egr section there's over 50 things to test. I could not find the list you posted, Is there a way to look up DTC's straight from the EVTM menu?

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#10 [url]

Jul 9 09 6:42 AM

Here's what I found for P0470 HE Pinpoint tests. It looks like you only perform a few of them though. this is from PCED section:

² PRE-DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION

² HE1: DTC P1195: EGR BOOST SENSOR FAILURE

² HE2: CHECK EGR BOOST CHECK SOLENOID

² HE3: CHECK FOR VREF AT EGR BOOST SENSOR

² HE4: CHECK EGRB CIRCUIT CONTINUITY

² HE5: CHECK FOR EGRB SHORT TO PWR OR GND

² HE6: CHECK EGR BOOST SENSOR OUTPUT

² HE10: DTC 1487: EGR BOOST CHECK SOLENOID MALFUNCTION

² HE11: CHECK CONTROL CIRCUIT TO EGR BOOST CHECK SOLENOID

Hah! Found it:

BOOST SENSOR FAILURE HE1

NOTE:
Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0470 and P1195 indicate a malfunction in the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) boost sensor circuit.

Possible causes:

-- Damaged sensor.

-- Damaged solenoid.

-- Improper harness connection.

-- Improper or damaged hoses.

-- Open/short in harness (EGRB, EGR CHK, SIG RTN, VREF, VPWR).

-- Damaged powertrain control module (PCM).

l Examine EGR boost sensor and EGR boost check solenoid vehicle harness connections.

l Examine EGR boost sensor and EGR boost check solenoid hoses and hose connections.

l Are vehicle harness and hoses attached and in good condition?


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#13 [url]

Jul 17 09 3:36 PM

QUOTE (Your Mom @ June 30, 2009 09:15 pm)
I've been working on this one today too. what other codes did you have?

the sensor on the egr is working for me, but i also had p0400.

I tested the egr pressure sensor fairly easy, remove 3 screws, turn key to on, put voltmeter on right side wire and push the pin up and you can see the voltage change as it moves.

also tested both selnoids on the firewall, used a vacuum pump. both seemed to work as stated in ford service manual.

let me know if you find anything.

just following up on mine, I cleaned the egr valve real good with brake clean. car's been running for almost 3 weeks with no codes. did emissions and all ready states were ready. i don't know if it fixed it or not but its not throwing another code. FWIW.

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bluesneaky

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#14 [url]

Jul 20 09 10:08 AM

good thing the brake cleaner worked. Ever try to buy a new EGR? Ouch! mega bucks if you can even find it.

I ran ziggy with two egrs. One was bolted in place with no vacum line or wires to it, basicly functioned as a block or plug to the recirculation of the exahaust in to the intake. The second egr was a working egr (all cleaned up and working spiffy) but not even on the engine. It just opened and closed while the wires sent the postion back to the ECM to make it think the EGR was doing its thing.

Why all that work? well why dump oxgen depleted air and exhaust back into the intake!!!! DUH!

it has always been a dumb thing to do that only tricks the tailpipe emmisions into looking better for the EPA. Burn the dern mixure again if you didnt get it all done the first time and then it will pass the EPA's stupid regs. Yea like that was a brillant regulation hugh? the end result was lowered MPG and in turn more gas burned and more exhaust into the air!!!!

They never looked at the exhaust vs the MPG. The better job a guy did burring all the fuel and getting all the energy there was out of the gas the worse the emmisions would be, it only makes sense! fordaspire/curse.gif So a car that was effecient would fail EPA cuz it was shooting crap out the tail pipe, of course it only used one gallon of gas to go 100 miles but dang the exhaust for that one gallon was crud. meanwhile a city bus scoots by burning 50 gallons to go 100 miles. grrrrrrr Cant anyone see the big picture here?

I step back down from my soapbox and quietly walk to the rear of the room....

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#15 [url]

Jul 21 09 12:59 AM

Hi Guys,

I finally stopped being a bum and picked up a can of carb/throttle cleaner. I spent 15 minutes cleaning my EGR valve out. It was super easy, only two bolts to take off.

I drove about 30 miles and no check engine light. I guess this fixes my PO470 code problem! I'll post if anything changes, otherwise I'm taking my car in for emissions test later today

BTW - I was told by my mechanic buddy to use carb/throttle cleaner to clean it, rather than brake cleaner. I'm not sure what the difference is, but someone might want to chime in on that and if there's any warnings with using brake cleaner

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bluesneaky

Executive Member

Posts: 490

#16 [url]

Jul 21 09 1:08 AM

Brake cleaner will stop it all up.



Couldnt help myself.... sorry.

Ziggy 1 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c added, 252k, 43 top mpg (still got 'em)
No Name --- '95 teal 2 dr, 5sp, 98K, bad clutch, sold it b4 I named it
Ziggy 2 --- '95 white 2dr, 5sp, a/c 147k split rear seat, 49.3 top mpg (deceased, mortally injured in towing accident 2008)
Kermit --- '95 teal 2dr, 5sp, a/c 103k, upgraded interior package - the daily driver now
(Had 2 1988 Festivias in the '90's. Over 200k on them too)

All pulled "Trapper" the '89 kamparoo camper on the back roads I should'a been drivin' my jeep on (4x4 aspire??)

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#17 [url]

Jul 26 09 11:47 PM


QUOTE (Your Mom @ June 30, 2009 09:15 pm)
also tested both selnoids on the firewall, used a vacuum pump. both seemed to work as stated in ford service manual.


Hey guys,

I guess I jumped the gun a little on this one. About 50-60 miles after I cleaned my existing EGR valve, my check engine light came back on again.

I wanted to check out that sensor on top of the EGR valve, but the three screws were too corroded to take it off.

I ended up buying a new EGR valve/sensor for about $90. I installed that, and I still get the same problem. The light turns on after about 50 miles.

My next step is to replace all of the vacuum lines. I don't think this will be very expensive and I'd rather just do it to get it out of the way. I visually checked all of the lines and don't see any problems, but there was a micro crack at the EGR valve when I replaced that, that I couldn't see normally.

My question is in regards to the quote above, how do I check the solenoids on the firewall? What does the Ford service manual say or whatever? What tool do I need to test this out (not sure what a vacuum pump is)?

I'm off to look up what a vacuum pump is, but if anyone can tell me how to test out those solenoids, I would appreciate it!

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#18 [url]

Jul 27 09 7:33 AM

The EGR vacuum solenoids are electrically operated valves.

12 volts is applied (with the electrical connector disconnected) and you should hear a click as the valve opens (or closes).

So air can flow/not flow. Then you apply 12volts, then the valve operates and then the opposite should occur. Air would then be able to not flow/flow.

Valves like this might be used to cut off air or allow air to flow when power is applied. Usually these types of valves "open" when power is applied.




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#19 [url]

Jul 27 09 8:42 AM

Hmmmm,

A quick question since I will be without iNet access for the next 8 hours....

If I do need to replace those, is there anywhere that sells them new? I asked at the local Autozone and they didn't have anything listed (unless they were looking up the wrong stuff). Would I have to get something like that from a junkyard, or maybe the Ford dealer ($$$)??

How do you suggest I go about test them out? Have the car running at idle, pull off the connector and I should hear a click? Or I should maybe hear a click not when I pull the connector off, but when I plug it back in?

Thanks in advance

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#20 [url]

Jul 27 09 12:06 PM

You could buy them off the internet probably. And other vehicles would use similar valves. And I would imagine you could find all sorts of similar valves at a wrecking yard. Get the electrical connector too with about 8 inches of wire because others will not use the same connector.

Testing...

To test, remove the valve.

Try blowing through the hole.

Apply 12 volts. Should hear a click.

Then try blowing through the hole with the 12 volts applied.

(Someone with a naughty mind could reword the above to make it sound a bit more exciting! )

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