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Most likely to find
1990-1994 Mazda Protege LX
1991-1996 Ford Escort GT
Also has BP engine
1989-1994 Mazda Familia GT (European & Australian Market)
1989-1994 Ford Laser TX3 (Australian Market)
1995-1998 Mazda Protege ES (Australian Market BA)
1990-1991 and 1993 Mazda Protege GT (Canadian Market)
1990-1993 Mazda 323 (European Market)
1991-1996 Mercury Tracer LTS
1995-1997 Kia Sephia RS, LS, GS
1994-1998 Mazda Familia (Japanese Market)
1994-1997 Mazda MX-5/Miata (did not have VICS until 1999)
What to grab from donor car
Ignition system (Igniter coil, capacitor, ignition module, a.k.a. the stuff hooked up to the distributor)
Brake booster vac line
ECU (Must be manual ecu, auto has different plugs)
All electrical connectors with long wire pigtails
E-Series is a cable clutch transmission that is already in your aspire. It's the weakest of the 3 series and can hold about 100 hp. If you go this route you need to baby your transmission until you find an upgrade. No sudden shocks to the drive train like clutch drops, burnouts, or wheel hop. Believe me, this will break the transmission case in half! The good thing is that you already have all the parts there in the car.
NOTE: You need to do 2 modifications when using the stock transmission. First, You need to install 1/2 or bigger spaces on the front 2 bolts of the subframe. This will tilt the engine forward and the intake won't bang on the firewall. Second, The BP oil pan will hit the passenger axle. You need to trim a little sliver off the oil pan to make it fit properly. Pic of my trimmed oil pan and axle installed:
The F-series is the most abundant transmission upgrade you will find. It can hold about 200 hp and is found in either a cable clutch version, or a hydraulic clutch. Keep in mind the aspire is setup for cable clutch.
Cars with cable F transmissions: 80's Mazda 323, 91 - 94 Mercury Capri non-turbo, 80's Mercury Tracer. Cars with hydro F transmissions: 90-94 mazda 323, 90-94 mazda protege DX (SOHC 1.8L), 92-96 Mazda MX-3 RS (1.6L 4 CYL).
Grab from the donor vehicle: Flywheel, clutch, starter. If you are getting the cable trans also grab the axles and shifter rod. Hydro trans grab the hydro clutch system, shifter rod (you'll need to modify it), and find a set of auto aspire axles.
Here is a great thread on the custom mounts for the F transmission by nerdracing
G-Series is the strongest but hardest to find proper axles. It can hold 300 hp. This transmission uses an intermediate shaft. You need the intermediate shaft and both axles from the Mercury Capri XR2. You also need to modify the bolt holes on the intermediate shaft so it will bolt to the BP block. The intermediate shaft from the protege and escort gt will NOT work. Don't even try. You need to make both custom transmission mounts, and rotate the shifter rod 90 degrees.
-Cable G-Series Transmissions
91-94 Mercury Capri XR2
80's Mazda 323 GT
-Hydro G-Series Transmissions
90-94 Mazda Protege LX (GT if you're in Canada)
91-96 Ford Escort GT (5 speed)
You need to swap over all the stock b3 accessories onto the bp block to have enough frame clearance. Swap over the crank pulley, water pump pulley, alternator, and belt. If you have a/c or power steering these components will also swap over, but frame clearance will be close. Install the engine and transmission together. Remove the exhaust manifold and radiator to squeeze the engine in there.
Alternator clearance with aspire transmission:
Pulley clearance with aspire transmission:
The Heater core lines and fuel lines will connect no problem. Use a set of kia rio radiator hoses with the aspire radiator. Use the protege downpipe and get a custom 2" or bigger cat-back exhaust. Relocate the battery to the trunk and remove the battery tray bracket. This is where you can place the vaf with the bp intake tube and bp intake box without any modifications.
Custom motor mount
You need 2" angle iron, 2 bolts, 2 nuts, bolts/spacers, and a 1/2" metal drill bit. Cut down the sides of the center bolt sleeve on the BP rubber mount so that it will fit in the aspire bracket. This should be done after the other 2 mounts are taken care of and the engine is sitting level in the car. Depending on which transmission you use the bolt placement might be a little different.
THIS WILL ONLY WORK FOR OBD1 ASPIRES 94 and 95. 96 and 97 uses a different wiring system.
With the engine installed, cut off all the engine electrical connectors. Peel back the harness and strip the wire ends.
USE A SOLDERING IRON FOR THIS! If a wire were to come loose it would cause problems and you wouldn't even know where to begin.
Smaller diagram, Same info
This is a pin-out diagram comparing the B3 ECU to the BP ECU. Note the differences.
After you connect all the wire you need to go to the ECU plug connectors and swap some pins around. The ECU is located under the drivers side dash, held in by 3 10mm nuts. I've found it's easier to remove the drivers seat to "comfortably" lay down.
Swap these pins
This is the pin labeling while looking at the ECU
Move 2F to 1G
Move 2W to 2O
Move 2M to 2P
Move 2Z to 2L
Move 2Y to 2W
Move 2J to 2S
Move 2H to 2Q
swap 1R and 1S to the other's spot - cooling fan an blower motor load detectors
move 1L to 1T - defrost load detector
unplug 1H, tap into 1C - this will make the fuel pump run in the run/start position
move 1I to 1L - DRL, probably wont have this pin
That should be all you need for the swap. The xr2 intermediate shaft modification can be found on the net, as well as the custom transmission mounts.